We’re not quite empty nesters, and this isn’t a babymoon — it’s something in between. For the first time since becoming parents, we took a real vacation without the kids. With Griffin starting his first job and Rowan busy with church camp, a beach trip with friends, and cheerleading, the timing just felt right. They stayed behind in Tennessee while we adventured on our own, a significant parenting milestone we hadn’t seen coming, but one that felt surprisingly natural. It doesn’t mean they won’t be joining future trips, just not every single one. This chapter feels like a new kind of freedom. One that honors where we’ve been and where we’re headed.
Tip: Click on each day to explore the hotels, restaurants, and tours featured in the itinerary.
Travel Day:
We left Knoxville at 7:00 AM to begin our journey, arriving in Boston in the late morning. We prepared for the next part of our tour, had lunch downtown, and explored a portion of the Freedom Trail during our ample 5.5-hour layover. Azores Airlines (SATA Airways) currently offers two daily direct flights to Ponta Delgada from both JFK and Boston Logan, making it one of the easiest international arrivals into Europe. For those not into red-eye travel, it’s worth staying the night in Boston and catching the first morning flight the next day to start refreshed. We, however, embraced the overnight and boarded the late-night direct flight (only 5 hours) to São Miguel—Azores. Here we come!
Day 1: Lake of Fire, Thermal Springs & Coastal Relaxation
We landed in the Azores at 6:20 AM, and with nothing open yet, we went straight to one of São Miguel’s most iconic natural wonders, Lagoa do Fogo (“Lake of Fire”). This crater lake sits high within the Fogo Volcano and is known for its shifting fog that can obscure the view one moment and reveal crystal-clear vistas the next. From mid-June through September, the road is closed to private vehicles during the day, so we timed our visit early, arriving around 7:30 AM to enjoy the view on our own. There are several viewpoints to choose from, but we opted to hike down to the lake’s edge via the Lagoa do Fogo trail, a moderate 1.8-mile roundtrip route that takes around 40 minutes to an hour. Swimming isn’t allowed, but the scenery was stunning. From there, we drove less than 10 minutes to Caldeira Velha, a lush thermal spring with cascading warm pools surrounded by rainforest. Entry is limited to 1.5-hour time slots, so advance reservations are a must. We were among the first to enter when it opened at 9:00 AM, a perfect, peaceful way to start the trip. By mid-morning, we were ready to recharge. We took the scenic 1-hour drive to Mosterios Place Hotel, where we lounged by the pool with a charcuterie board while waiting for our room. The views, hospitality, and peaceful setting were just what we needed after a long travel day. That evening, we dined at Restaurante III Arcos, just 8 minutes away, where the local octopus and wine were delicious. An early bedtime capped off a perfect start to our Azores adventure.
Day 2: Crater Lakes, Ocean Hot Springs & Sunset Cocktails
After an early breakfast, we drove 20 minutes to Miradouro da Boca do Inferno, the view that first inspired our Azores trip. We arrived around 8:30 AM and had the trail nearly to ourselves. The view over Sete Cidades was absolutely worth it. Next was Vista do Rei, with sweeping lake views and a peek at the abandoned Monte Palace hotel. There’s a small food truck here serving great coffee and burgers. Then we headed down to Lagoa das Cidades for lunch by the lake and a relaxing kayak session across the calm water. Our afternoon was spent at Termas da Ferraria, where hot volcanic vents warm the ocean water. Though we arrived at high tide (low tide is best), we could still feel the heat; such a surreal experience. There’s also a thermal pool nearby for a proper soak, plus showers to rinse off. Definitely bring surf socks for the volcanic rock! We wrapped up the day with cocktails and ceviche at MOMO, a stunning oceanfront restaurant at SENSI Azores Nature & Spa. Incredible drinks, a perfect sunset, and a spot we’d love to stay at next time.
- Hotel🛏️: https://www.sensiazores.com/
- Eats🍽️: https://www.sensiazores.com/dining
- Activities: https://www.facebook.com/termas.ferraria.90/?locale=pt_PT
Day 3: North Coast Views & Soaking in Furnas
We began our day in Mosteiros, exploring the rugged black sand beach and dramatic lava rock formations. From there, we headed north for another stunning perspective of Sete Cidades at Miradouro Cumeeiras. The drive felt remote, but the view from this lesser-known overlook, perched along the Seven Cities Loop trail, offered a peaceful vantage point from the opposite side of the lake. By mid-morning, we continued to Furnas, a lush volcanic valley about 1 hour and 15 minutes from Mosteiros. Our first stop was Miradouro do Pico do Ferro, with sweeping views of the Furnas crater and lake below. Before checking in, we made a short 5-minute detour to visit Mata-Jardim José do Canto, a moss-covered 19th-century garden church tucked within a peaceful park. This hidden gem felt like something out of a fairytale and was an absolute must-see for us. After checking into the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel, we enjoyed a leisurely lunch at Restaurante Terra Nostra, known for its elegant prix fixe menu. That afternoon, we walked a scenic loop around the steaming calderas, stopping to try corn cooked in volcanic heat. Then we explored Terra Nostra Park, a unique botanical garden featuring a massive thermal pool with mineral-rich brown water. One major perk of staying at the hotel is exclusive after-hours access to the thermal bath, an incredibly peaceful way to unwind. For even more soaking, Poça da Dona Beija, just a few minutes away, offers beautifully lit thermal pools best enjoyed in the evening.
- Hotel🛏️: https://www.bensaudehotels.com/terranostragardenhotel
- Botanical Garden🌿: https://www.parqueterranostra.com/pt/
- Thermal Pool💦: https://pocadadonabeija.com
Day 4: Canyons, Coastal Views & Sushi Feasts
We started the day in the island’s lush northeast, stopping in the quiet town of Nordeste for morning coffee with a view. From there, we drove to Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego, one of the most scenic viewpoints on São Miguel. Overlooking the rugged cliffs of the undeveloped northern coast, it’s also the perfect spot for a peaceful picnic. Just 20 minutes away, we arrived at Ribeira dos Caldeirões Natural Park, a green wonderland of cascading waterfalls and tropical plants. We were here for a half-day canyoning tour, something we’ve done in the past, but this location was special. It felt like an adventure park carved out of a fairytale forest. The tour included walking through riverbeds, rappelling down waterfalls, ziplining, rock jumps (up to 18 ft, totally optional!), and a natural slide. It was thrilling but not too intense, and we loved every second. Bonus: the guides take free photos and email them afterward. Afterward, we drove to the south coast and checked into Pestana Bahia Praia Nature Beach & Resort, a relaxed oceanfront hotel perfect for unwinding. For dinner, we headed to Dragoeiro Sushi, located just 12 minutes away at the ANC Resort. The 50-piece sushi platter with a bottle of wine made for a delicious and memorable end to our adventure-filled day.
Day 5: Beach Bliss, Sushi Seconds & a Sunset Sendoff
By Day 5, we felt content; we’d explored, hiked, soaked, and adventured our way across São Miguel. So instead of packing in more activities, we embraced a slower pace. We originally planned to scuba dive in hopes of spotting manta rays, but the ocean temperature was still too cool for a sighting. As frequent divers, we decided to skip the cold plunge and enjoy a laid-back beach day instead. We spent the morning lounging on the black sand near Praia de Água d’Alto, just steps from our hotel. Bar da Praia, a beachfront spot with burgers, grilled fish, and cocktails, was the perfect lunch break with sandy feet and salty hair. Later, we returned to Dragoeiro Sushi at the ANC Resort for round two… we couldn’t resist. Another sushi feast (yes, we got the 50-piece platter again) followed by an easy walk back to the beach made the afternoon feel like a mini getaway within a getaway. We watched the sun dip below the horizon with our toes in the sand, the perfect way to end our time on São Miguel.
- Optional Activities:
- Scuba Diving🐠: https://www.azoressub.com/en/
- Whale & Dolphin Watching🐋: https://www.getyourguide.com/sao-miguel-island-l1663/whale-dolphin-watching-3-hour-trip-from-sao-miguel-t75560
Return: Flying Home from the Azores
We wrapped up our Azores adventure with a smooth return via SATA Airways, flying from Ponta Delgada (PDL) to Boston (BOS), a convenient direct flight offered daily from 6:05 PM to 7:50 PM. If you’re flying back through JFK, note that the route includes a short stop or layover in Terceira Island. Honestly, if you choose this option, we highly recommend extending your trip by a day or two to explore Terceira. It’s known for its charming towns, volcanic caves, and slower pace. The airport in Ponta Delgada is small and easy to navigate, but still plan to arrive 2–2.5 hours before departure. Returning the rental car was easy, especially since the airport lots are well-marked.
- Airline✈️: https://www.azoresairlines.pt/en
- Teceria🌋: https://www.visitazores.com/en/the-azores/terceira
Takeaways: Driving in the Azores is generally easy, but if you’re not used to a manual transmission, make sure to book an automatic car in advance — they’re limited and sell out quickly. Parking is casual; you’ll notice locals leaving their cars just about anywhere, and traffic simply moves around them. As for the roads themselves, expect the unexpected. At one point, we ended up in the middle of a cattle drive, inching along beside towering cows that were easily taller than our little Dacia. Tractors, ATVs, pedestrians, plows, and road crews also share the roads, so just take it slow and enjoy the ride. When navigating, definitely use Google Maps instead of Apple Maps; it’s far more accurate on the island. While exploring local flavors, be adventurous: “green wine” (vinho verde) isn’t actually from the Azores (it comes from northern mainland Portugal), but you’ll still find crisp, refreshing white wines worth sampling. And yes, blood sausage with pineapple is a traditional dish. We recommend trying it once in a nice restaurant, and then you can decide if it’s for you. The Azores have a rhythm all their own, and it’s part of the magic. From thermal springs and crater lakes to sushi platters and surprise cattle encounters, every turn offers something new and unforgettable.
Roaming with Rowan 
I love the thermal bath. The photos are spectacular.
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