Rioja:Haro’s La Batalla del Vino 🇪🇸🍷 (The Wine Fight Haro, Spain)

While exploring northern Spain’s Rioja wine region, we discovered one of the most unique and joy-filled traditions in Europe: La Batalla del Vino, or The Wine Fight, in Haro, Spain. Celebrated each year during St. Peter’s Feast Day (June 27–30), this multi-day festival blends wine, music, and community in the most unexpected ways. We flew into Bilbao Airport, picked up our rental car (a luxury surprise from National Car’s Emerald Aisle: think Range Rover, Mercedes, or Audi), and made the short hour-long drive to Briñas, a charming village near Haro. Lodging in Haro itself is limited, and many visitors camp in cars or tents. Briñas offered a peaceful alternative, while still being only five minutes from the action.

After a late Spanish dinner around 9:00 PM, we drove up to Haro and walked into the heart of the celebration. The town square was alive with energy, live concerts, DJs, dancing grandparents, inflatable animal costumes, and kids running wild well past midnight. Everyone, from toddlers to the elderly, was part of the celebration.

The real spectacle begins early on June 29. Around 7:30 AM, we drove past the main turnoff and parked near the vineyards, a short 20-minute walk up to the hill of San Felices. Many people waited over two hours for the free shuttle buses and missed parts of the event, so driving was key. At 8:45 AM, a mass is held atop the hill, a rocket is launched, and the wine fight begins. Though unofficially, the spraying starts as soon as you step out of your car in a white outfit. Participants armed with water guns, spray bottles, and buckets douse each other in red wine. Goggles are a must!

By 11:00 AM, we returned to Plaza de la Paz in Haro for more concerts, dancing, and the arrival of a parade with brass bands. At noon, six bulls were released to run through the square—not nearly as intense as Pamplona, but still wildly entertaining. What truly stood out was the town’s hospitality. Despite the language barrier, the locals were warm, welcoming, and clearly proud to share this tradition. It wasn’t just the wine; it was the heart of the people. Nearly no one spoke English, and yet they were genuinely delighted we had come to celebrate with them.

After the festivities, we returned to our hotel to shower and nap. The temperatures had soared above 100°F (40°C), and by afternoon, the streets were nearly empty as the town retreated until sundown.

Michelin Moments & Medieval Magic:
That evening, we drove 25 minutes to the town of Elciego and had dinner at 1860 Tradición, the Michelin-recommended restaurant inside the stunning Hotel Marqués de Riscal. The hotel’s architecture is breathtaking, designed by Frank Gehry. Its shimmering curves and bold structure look like something out of a dream, rising dramatically from the vineyards.

The next day, we had a delightfully unplanned early lunch at Bodegón Ayala. No one spoke English, which made the dining experience more exciting. The friendly table next to us even offered us samples of their food, which was both generous and delicious.

After lunch, we explored Laguardia, a beautifully preserved medieval town perched above the valley. With its stone walls, narrow alleys, and panoramic vineyard views, it felt like stepping back in time. From there, we headed to Bodegas Ysios, a winery known for both its striking architectural design and its incredibly warm staff. We spent two hours tasting wines, enjoying jamón and cheese pairings, and learning about their passion-driven production. The hospitality here was second to none—genuine, enthusiastic, and deeply personal.

Having traveled to over 65 countries, we can confidently say: Rioja is our favorite wine region in the world, and home to the kindest people we’ve ever met. If you’re planning to explore the Rioja region, consider timing your visit around this unforgettable celebration. It’s messy, wild, and absolutely worth it.

Final Stop: San Sebastián to Barcelona
After our wine-filled days, we drove through the mountains to San Sebastián on the Basque coast. From bar-hopping for pintxos to lounging on the beach, the town offered the perfect blend of culinary delight and natural beauty. We stayed at Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra, which gave us postcard-worthy views of the boardwalk and La Concha Beach right from our balcony. For our final stretch, we drove six hours across northern Spain, passing through Pamplona and several small villages, before arriving in Barcelona. It remains one of our favorite cities in the world and was the perfect place to wind down and end this unforgettable trip.